Sikkim is a weird state. It certainly in no way feels like India up here. Gangtok, its capital, where I presently am, has an air of organisation, though somewhat hotch-potch. At least it does not smell, there are no open sewers, it does not feel overcrowded, and it boasts a terrific transport system consisting of a massive fleet of jeeps, with hardly any buses to be seen. The reason is quite simple- the state, no bigger than greater Delhi, ranges in height from just over sea level to 8598m, with steep potholed roads serpenting about the whole state. Its popluation is predominantly Nepali with a sprinkle of Tibetan refugees that have become very much part fo the local cultural landscape.
There are some amazing Tibetan monastic complexes, and was at one of these (the biggest one in Sikkim) today. The colourful Tibetan architecture and the marroon-clad, clean-shaven monks were in stark contrast with the austere looking khaki-clad Indian army forces that were patroling at the entrances and also within the main complex. The reason is a complex political issue where the head of the Bhuddist sect (the BLack Hat sect) based at this monastery (Rumtek) , has not been allowed to actually set foot in the monastery because the Chinese Government threats of a political relationship meltdown. The guy is therefore stuck in Dharamsala, where the Dalai Lama also lives, amidst pleas from his followers to the Indian President of 'we have waited enough!' (posters with this slogan and the picture of him adorn many places in the monastery corridoors).
I've been eating like a King again, and Tibetan food is actually very nice- the dumplings called momos, had with red chilli sauce and a chicken broth is delicious as are some of their other soups. Other local Sikkim delicacies are Yak cheese momos and nettle soup- I've yet to try these.
Tomorrow I'm off to a semi-frozen lake situated 38k from here at nearly 4000m altitude, only 10km away from the Nathula Pass, whcih was only a couple of months ago reopened- it forms one of the only 2 trade routes that are open between India and the China(Tibet) border- however they are not allowing foreigners here, so I doubt I'll be able to see it.
There are some amazing Tibetan monastic complexes, and was at one of these (the biggest one in Sikkim) today. The colourful Tibetan architecture and the marroon-clad, clean-shaven monks were in stark contrast with the austere looking khaki-clad Indian army forces that were patroling at the entrances and also within the main complex. The reason is a complex political issue where the head of the Bhuddist sect (the BLack Hat sect) based at this monastery (Rumtek) , has not been allowed to actually set foot in the monastery because the Chinese Government threats of a political relationship meltdown. The guy is therefore stuck in Dharamsala, where the Dalai Lama also lives, amidst pleas from his followers to the Indian President of 'we have waited enough!' (posters with this slogan and the picture of him adorn many places in the monastery corridoors).
I've been eating like a King again, and Tibetan food is actually very nice- the dumplings called momos, had with red chilli sauce and a chicken broth is delicious as are some of their other soups. Other local Sikkim delicacies are Yak cheese momos and nettle soup- I've yet to try these.
Tomorrow I'm off to a semi-frozen lake situated 38k from here at nearly 4000m altitude, only 10km away from the Nathula Pass, whcih was only a couple of months ago reopened- it forms one of the only 2 trade routes that are open between India and the China(Tibet) border- however they are not allowing foreigners here, so I doubt I'll be able to see it.
posted by sajir at 4:30 AM
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